Power of the Pivot: How Flexibility Can Save a Dive Trip

It began with a typhoon and ended with a tsunami—and a major ocean current went AWOL in between. Yet we still managed a (mostly) great time on our recent trip to central Japan. Even though it seemed that everything that could go wrong did, the Izu Peninsula and offshore Izu Islands were full of fantastic creatures and lovely undersea scenery. Positives overwhelmed negatives to deliver adventure refreshingly different from the mainstream Pacific destinations better known to North American divers.

Diving With Dolphins and Dream Fish

Typhoon Nari was downgraded to a tropical storm and in retreat when my wife and I, along with two good friends, arrived in the Izu Islands via overnight ferry from Tokyo. Unfortunately, residual weather and subsequent boat problems canceled three of four excursions to see Mikura-jima’s celebrated wild dolphins. One is infinitely better than zero, however.

Many domo arigatos are owed to Tatsuya-san, our guide who finagled us onto a different (working) boat for our sole charter. The ensuing snorkeling encounter with dozens of curious, playful bottlenose dolphins was spectacular, filling us with hope. This was just one of many occasions where “T-man”—the extraordinary gentleman fixer/translator/divemaster/driver/ gear hauler/cultural liaison that we had hired to lead our two-week custom trip—saved our bacon.

Things were looking up. We rode that buoying fortune onto another ferry to neighboring Hachijo-jima. Notwithstanding unseasonably cold water and bad visibility (thanks again, Nari), I found and photographed the endemic “Yuzen” wrought-iron butterflyfish of my dreams, as well as gorgeous angels, weird morwongs and more.

Related Reading: Swimming With Wild Dolphins: A Guide to Ethical Encounters

Hammered by Kuroshio

In winter two years ago, I fell in love with the Izu Peninsula. This time, we visited in summer, prime time for schooling hammerhead sharks at Mikomoto Island when the warm, clear Kuroshio current bathes the area—except, apparently, in our presence.

The current was not there to welcome us, but it was 100-plus miles east instead. In its absence, we encountered fewer sharks than usual, and conditions were suboptimal. But giving up was not an option. On the 11th dive here—persistence is in my DNA—we struck gold at a site called A Point, when around 40 hammerheads paraded past our hiding spot 80 feet deep. Beautiful and sinister, alien and unmistakable, the schooling sharks took our collective breath away.

Related Reading: Making Connections While Diving in Southern Japan

Sanctuary in a Storm

On days when big swells prevented us from diving Mikomoto, we pivoted to Plan B. On the opposite side of Izu Peninsula, Osezaki boasts excellent diving, and its unique shape protects it from most inclement weather. A forest of towering soft coral trees sprouts from a sloping ridge below 100 feet. Middle depths showcased eels, seahorses and scorpionfish. In the shallows, I lost myself watching electric-hued fairy wrasses and elegant anthias engaged in courtship dances.

When brisk northwest winds scrapped another shark charter, Tatsuya-san rejiggered our itinerary yet again, pulling strings and driving us two hours to Ito. The artificial reef near the harbor was overgrown by pastel soft corals and swarmed by silvery clouds of cardinalfish. We also scored at Ito’s dramatic offshore pinnacles with frenetic fish action and bright, Fiji-esque corals. Being nimble, creative and committed saved the day once again.

Risk and Reward: Scuba Diving in a Tsunami

What do you do when, 10 minutes into a dive, your guide shows you a slate on which is written, “Tsunami. Please go up”? We did just that—chop, chop—scrambling onto the boat to hear (in a surreally calm Japanese-to-English translation) that a huge 8.8-magnitude earthquake in Russia had just triggered a tsunami warning for Japan.

Hayama’s harbormaster had ordered all boats return to port. We raced back, disembarked and—still in wetsuits—drove uphill to the dive shop to glue ourselves to the unfolding news. Mercifully, no catastrophic, all-obliterating wave materialized. Our damage that day was limited to two missed macro dives on the Miura Peninsula.

The next day, our last, we repositioned to the Boso Peninsula. The government eventually reopened the area, but visibility was less than 5 feet. Ito Tateyama’s extraordinary wide-angle dive with its friendly mob of hound sharks was another bust.

We saw sperm whales that day. No cause for happy dances, however. Four leviathans were dead on a beach, their stranding and demise likely related to the megaquake. With bloody waves lapping at my feet, I stood next to each hulking cetacean—majestic even in death—and fought back tears.

That profound moment is something I will never forget. No one wants to end on a downer, especially after so many hard-fought and therefore twice-as-sweet victories. But adventure is risk and reward. I travel to explore and experience, diving headfirst into who-knows-what. Not every day will be joyous, yet some will be.

Next time, perhaps I will swim with whales rather than stand next to them. Next time, the weather might be perfect, that squadron of hammerheads 100 strong hovering right above me on every dive.

Related Reading: Asian Shark and Ray Alliance: An Eco Org Divers Should Know

Recipe for Success

Two remarkable trips in central Japan proved the importance of research, contingency plans, flexibility, patience and partnering with local experts to plan, book and execute. Ambitious drive-and-dive expeditions are difficult on your own, especially if you don’t speak Japanese. This is no generic, off-the-shelf scuba adventure. Therein lies the charm. Dream big, prepare thoroughly and have courage, and you will trailblaze to success.

Need to Know Diving in Japan

Getting Around

Hire a local guide to chaperone you. They can translate, make diving and hotel reservations, assist with transportation, and smooth out the inevitable wrinkles along the way.

Before You Go

Learn about marine life, sites, operators, factoids and logistics of diving in Japan: dive-in-japan.com.

Like a Local

In Japan, little gifts are more culturally appropriate than cash gratuities. If you have questions about tipping etiquette for your trip, it’s best to ask in advance.

Gear

Rolling luggage for the ferry (walk-on only, no autos) to the Izu Islands.

Tech Tip

Download a translation app, like Google Translate. You can save language libraries ahead of your trip for use offline.